Jalopnik Unveils What Might Possibly Maybe Potentially Be the C7 Corvette
Jalopnik Claims This is the 2014 C7 Corvette
But I don't think it is...
A few weeks ago, Jalopnik released artist renderings of what they claim--with great confidence--to be the C7 Corvette. They claim that "The exclusive images you see here, derived from hours spent secretly poring over the sheetmetal of two seventh-generation Corvettes, show the next step in the supercar's iconic evolution. These aren't photos, but this is absolutely the next-generation Chevy Corvette in ZR1 trim. GM so doesn't want you to see these." Well, this may ultimately be the case but I am wont to be skeptical until we get something official from the boys with the bowtie.
Jalopnik's Exclusive C7 Corvette Spy Photo
This isn't meant to lampoon or insult Jalopnik, either, as they're a very legitimate and respectable journalistic website, but simply to express my own personal opinion and display my general disbelief at these sorts of "automotive rumors". Firstly, they claim that these images were derived from hours spent "secretly poring over the sheetmetal of two seventh-generation Corvettes". I have extreme difficulty believing that GM, with this vehicle being 2 years out from dealers still and at least a year away from show, would knowingly allow for a press member to look over their body design for their flagship vehicle. Maybe the term "secretively" is meant to insinuate that this poring over occurred behind Chevrolet's backs, but, that's even more difficult for me to believe. I have been in to major automotive manufacturer's R&D areas before, and they--especially GM, who is infamous for this--keep these things heavily guarded and under lock. If the GM exec's were unaware of a person--much less a press member--poring over their "sheetmetal" designs, I would be considerably surprised.
Secondly, if they were able to pore over this sheetmetal closely enough and for long enough to provide an artist with the information necessary to do a proper recreation of the vehicle, why didn't they just take photos? These images may very well be based on insider information that they're privy to, and in fact most likely are rooted in some degree of truth. Again, I have nothing but respect for Jalopnik and wouldn't expect them to outright fabricate anything, but the claims they make seem to indicate that they know for certain that the C7 Corvette will look like the one in these photos and will not, under any circumstances, undergo any stylistic changes between now and the 2014 release date.
Jalopnik's Exclusive C7 Corvette Spy Photos - Is that a Camaro rear end?
Thirdly, they claim "GM so doesn't want you to see these." Let's ignore the emphasized "so" which is more reminiscent of my teenage niece's vocal style and inflection than of a professional journalistic endeavor, and focus on the meat of that sentence: GM doesn't want us to see these. If this were true, there's only thing that would be certain: We wouldn't be seeing them! GM has real leverage over automotive journalists because they are the hand that feeds, ultimately. Yes, readership is what sells ad space and subscriptions, but you won't gain readership without having a media connection that the average person cannot acquire, and Jalopnik has something great going for them. They're one of the top 10 automotive journals in existence today, and they thrive on their connections to insiders at major automotive manufacturers. In short, GM giveth, and if they piss off GM, GM will undoubtedly taketh away. If GM didn't actually want us to see these photos, they would tell Jalopnik the publication of them would lead to a revocation of their journalistic inside scoop, and ultimately, Jalopnik would not show them. GM's non-action, and seeming ignoring of Jalopnik's release of these photos, points to them being little more than a well-done bit of rumor-mill fodder.
Fourthly, and finally, they claim that the Corvette they're sharing is in a ZR1 build. Let's just look over the release history of the Corvette. The base model is the first Corvette built, shown, and announced and the vehicle which they use to drum up interest. Chevrolet then takes a year or two--as they did with both the C5 and C6--to release a higher performance equivalent to their base. In both of those models it was branded as the Z06, and the Z06 name has become synonymous with track performance world round. I know that just saying "Z06" will strike fear in to the hearts of other racers at most tracks as people know that vehicle's potential. Why then, without a base-model production yet, or a Z06, would Chevrolet be developing their first prototype C7s in ZR1 trim. If anything, it would be base-level trim for now--maybe Z06--and the ZR1 would only come down the road if the GM brain-trust deemed a super high-performance package necessary.
Jalopnik's Exclusive C7 Corvette Spy Photos
Ultimately, even if they are fake, these photos are something important: they're something to talk about. They have definite stylistic cues that the C7 Corvette could, and most likely, will take. They are built on the other rumors we've received through the grapevine in the months leading up to now, and they look good. Again, I believe that there's a grain of truth to these--maybe a few insider words from a designer on where their cues are coming from (I see hints of Ferrari in the front hood lines, and the large, long, and sloped rear window is more reminiscent of a European mid-engine racer than anything else GM has made in any recent bit of history, as well as the obviously Camaro inspired tail-lights adorning the rear of the vehicle in the Jalopnik photos)--and I imagine that the finished C7 we see in dealers and on roads will be similar to these pictures, but it won't be that exact car. Things will change, and Jalopnik will have gotten some things wrong, that's inevitable. Until GM officially releases their own photos of the C7, also, I'll wait to make my judgement. Here's to hoping that comes relatively soon, and also, that GM goes with different tail lights. No offense to the Camaro, it's a gorgeous car, but those look out of place on the real, classic, American race car that is the Corvette.
Product Spotlight: Painted Corvette License Plate Frame
Here's a great product I came across that's available at a great price: Painted Aluminum Corvette License Plate Frames. Trying to keep up with a semi-regular product spotlight series, these seemed--based on their quality, great looks, and affordable price--like a logical next product.
The manufacturing for these is really cool, and, SouthernCarParts--who is one of the major retailers for them and a company that I personally enjoy dealing with (I feel like, as far as Corvette products go, they're like my everyday Cheers-esque bar where everyone knows my name)--provides a lot of information for how they're produced. Beginning with a solid brass, heavy cast mold, the base aluminum plate is formed. Each plate is then CNC machine cut for precision, and given a precise, fast machine engraving. The Engravings on these are of the Corvette lettering, with your choice of either Base Corvette C6, Z06, or ZR1 badging emblem to accompany it. Once engraved, the plates are given a multi-coat paint job using actual GM paints. I questioned this, but, was assured that the paint being used is derived from the GM WPA code, and, I'll be damned if the one I received didn't match perfectly. The paint is applied in a multi-coat process, with a final clear coating, for shine and durability and looks just like the stock Corvette paint job.
The last part of the production process is the one that impresses me the most. The Corvette engravings on these plates are actually hand-filled with an acrylic epoxy. Typically, hand-filling means that a product is prohibitively more costly than machine ones, but these are definitely affordable. The quality of the acrylic epoxy is perfect, there are no imperfections, and the plate looks awesome to be finished off with these emblems. These things are absolutely gorgeous.
As with any license plate frame, this is easy to install. The painted screw caps are a nice touch to help keep the whole thing looking uniform, and once installed, the plate really looks like it belongs on the vehicle. All-in-all, I'm really happy with the product, considering that it cost under $115 and adds more Corvette badging with an OEM (or better) quality finish. That can never be a bad thing, can it?
The Updated, Renovated, 2012 Corvette
We already know all about the 2012 Centennial Edition Corvette, which, with it's gorgeous custom paint work, wheels, and other touches is exciting in and of itself. In addition to this Centennial Edition, we--as Corvette enthusiasts--have also already seen what the 2012 ZR1 is able to do on the Nurburgring. The new 2012 Model ZR1 Corvette utilized its improved Michelin® Pilot® Sport Cup Zero Pressure tires and Performance Traction Management Technology to beat its previous best by more than 6-seconds on the world-renowned Nurburgring course. Yes, we already know all of these awesome things about the 2012 Corvette, but there's also a good deal more.
Those Michelin® Pilot® Sport Cup Zero Pressure tires? Those are also going to be on the 2012 Z06 as well. Chevrolet describes those wheels as being "essentially street-legal versions of a racing tire", as they're intended for track-driving Corvette owners and are optimized to boost lateral acceleration and shorten braking time by increasing road traction on track-conditions, and thus, shortened lap times. The Tires, which are sized in a 285/30ZR19 front and 335/25ZR20 rear offset, are mounted on GM's new Cup-style alloy wheels which GM claims are both lighter and stronger than the 2011's 20-spokes. The wheels will be available in two separate finishes: machined alloy, and satin black.
The next addition coming to the 2012 Corvette is for all model levels: revised seats and steering wheels. Taking on one of the Corvette's biggest areas of complaint--interior comfort and class--GM decided to retool their seating arrangements and interior styling with new, more comfortable, seats. The seats aren't the only thing getting extra padding, either. As seen in the Centennial Edition Corvette, the armrests, steering wheel, and center console are being reworked to be more classy and comfortable as well.
Another standard change for the 2012 Model Corvettes is the switch to a taller gear ratio in the ZR1, a move certainly done under the influence of increased fuel economy. This move will change the 5th and 6th gears on the ZR1 to overdrive gears and give the vehicle an extra 2mpg fuel economy.
Of course, these sorts of changes wont be free. For the new Michelins, you'll want to opt for either the ZR1 High Performance Package, or the Z07 Performance Package for the Z06. Each of these packages will provide the performance bonuses mentioned above, and more, especially the Z07 Package. In addition to the Sport Cup offset Alloys and the new Michelins, the Performance Traction Management (previously a ZR1 exclusive) Magnetic Selective Ride Control and Brembo carbon-ceramic brakes. All of these aspects work together to make the fastest Z06 ever produced. How fast you ask? How about 7:22:68 through Nurburgring. That's only 3-seconds behind the 2012 ZR1's 7:19:63, and a full 20 seconds better than the previous Z06 best on that track. Those numbers are true supercar numbers, that much's for certain.
Here's video of Jim Mero, the same driver who tackled the Nurburgring in the ZR1, running the 12.9 mile track in the 2012 Z06:
These performance enhancements aren't going to be free, though. Every level of Corvette, from the base 2012 Model through the ZR1, is seeing a price increase this year, but, that's to be expected. Of these price changes, Paul Leinert of InsideLine writes:
"...the basic Corvette Coupe rises from $49,995 to $50,500 (all prices include shipping, which rises by $25 to $975), while the Corvette Convertible climbs from $54,995 to $55,500. The Corvette Grand Sport Coupe jumps from $55,995 to $56,900, while the Corvette Grand Sport Convertible increases from $59,995 to $60,500. The Corvette Z06 hardtop goes from $75,325 to $76,500, while the range-topping Corvette ZR1 is bumped from $111,250 to $112,500.
Among the pricier options for 2012 are the Z06 Ultimate Performance package ($7,500), the Centennial Special Edition ($4,950), the Z06 Carbon Fiber package ($3,995) and Z06 Magnetic Selective Ride Control ($2,495).
The ZR1 Performance package is priced at $1,495 and the Grand Sport Heritage package, $1,195. Chrome aluminum wheels are $1,995 on the Z06 and Grand Sport, $2,000 on the ZR1 and $1,850 on the standard coupe and convertible."
Corvette Centennial Edition
Almost exactly 100 years ago Louis Chevrolet, a Swiss-born mechanic and racecar driver, founded Chevrolet Motor Car Company on November 8, 1911. He competed in the Indianapolis 500 and after working for Buick for a little more than four years, began designing his own cars while racing. He raced with his brother and a few close friends before making a name for himself in the early 1900's racing scene. With his brother, together they founded Chevrolet Motor Car Company before his brother would be killed in a racing crash ending both of their careers in professional racing. This car company however, unbeknownst to him at the time, would live on for a century to come and become a famed competitor in the history of motorsports. Unfortunately for Mr. Chevrolet, the stock market crash of '29 took a harsh toll on his previous earnings and upon needing work, took a job at the Chevrolet factory as a line mechanic in 1931. On June 6, 1941, Louis Chevrolet died almost penniless in Detroit, Michigan after founding one of America's most recognizable car brands. The Chevy bowtie emblem that we all associate with the company seems to have two stories as to how it came about. The first is that the bowtie is actually a stylized Swiss cross emblem Chevrolet created to honor his parents birthplace and homeland. The second story is that William Durant, Louis Chevrolet's partner and the founder of General Motors saw the shape in a French wallpaper and clipped a piece of it to save and recreated the shape with the Chevy namesake. Regardless of which story is true, the man and the legend of Chevrolet have been honored this year as a tribute to his life and racing spirit.
The sinister look of an all black (particularly in September of this year in New Zealand) car has long since been an enthusiast favorite with its dark features, and the Centennial Edition Corvette plays to that crowd. The Centennial Edition is an all black edition of the Corvette relishing the 100 year history of our favorite automaker. The Centennial edition is available for every line of Corvette (from the Base model to the ZR1), and is expected to run an extra $4,995 for the package. The package features exclusive Carbon Flash Metallic paint on the exterior, coupled with a set of special black aluminum spun Centennial Wheels lined red on the lip, with red calipers and carbon-ceramic brakes. The absolutely awesome Magnetic Selective Ride Control will also be available with the package. A special badge that bears the resemblance of Louis Chevrolet and the number 100 will be located on the B-pillar, the steering wheel, and the Chevy bowtie logo with the number 100 will be embossed on the headrests. The wheels also say "Centennial" on the rim just barely visible with a gloss/matte contrast. The interior has also been remodeled and finished in Ebony leather contrasted with red stitching. The steering wheel, seats, shifter and armrests get microfiber suede accents similar to those found on the Z06 Carbon Edition.
The entire package has an extremely sharp looking finish on the Corvette, being almost black with red accents either in stitching, or pin striping on the wheels and calipers, provides a very crisp look to the car. The overall effect is there, and having a sinister look to the car will be an especially daunting look on the Z06 and ZR1. If the man himself could see the 100 year anniversary of his company, I think he'd be proud. The 100 year anniversary, celebrated by the Corvette is nothing short of memorable and should be a point of pride for all Chevy owners.
Common Corvette C5 Problems and Solutions
Common Corvette C5 Problems that if addressed early can potentially save you some money and costly damage.
Leaking Battery
Many C5's came with AC Delco Freedom batteries that had a tendency to have it's case crack open near the battery posts. The leaking battery acid would drip down the side of the battery, down the funnel-like battery support, straight down onto the PCM and the wiring loom. It can also get onto the A/C lines. I believe they are the vacuum lines that control the movement of the interior vents, and usually the system will default to blowing out the defroster vent. Sometimes car crippling damage would occur, sometimes not. It worst it would mean replacing the battery, the PCM, the wiring harness, grinding the rust off the frame to repaint it, changing the A/C lines and possibly swapping out another computer as well. This mostly happened on early C5's because later C5's used a gel-type battery that cannot leak, but I believe the problem resurfaced on '04 or '05 models again.
Check this out on any car you look at. Use a 8 mm monkey wrench, preferably a ratcheting closed-end version, to removed the battery cables. You also remove a holding block on the front side of the battery. You will need a long extension to reach it. The battery basically lifts right out. Also remove the black plastic battery tray. Look beneath the tray for rust or white powder. Signs of both are evidence of battery acid damage. It would probably be best to move to the next Vette unless you don't mind possibly tackling this repair in the future. It's possible that the car will throw codes for no apparent reason.
No matter what Vette you buy, just make sure you replace the battery with a gel-type battery, like the Optima Redtop, sold at CostCo for $100.
Grounding Problems aka CRAZY electrical gremlins!
Bill Curlee has a great thread on the problems that corroded ground connections can create, and how to clean out the grounds. The most problematic ground connections are behind the headlights on both sides. Check out Bill's thread for detailed info: Go!
Here's where all the grounds are: Go!
Water Intrusion
Water leaks have several ways of getting in the car, and none of them AFAIK are very difficult to fix. Proper adjustments and maintenance will prevent most leaks.
Bill Curlee's thread abouting locating & cleaning the udders, and sealing the door hinges.
Here's a few TSB's from the CorvetteActionCenter.com:
1997-1998: Service Bulletin: Waterleak Above Door Glass (Reseal Blowout Clip)
1997-2002: Service Bulletin: General Waterleak Guide
1997: Service Bulletin: Water Drips into Rear Compartment After Hatch/Glass Has Been Opened
Seats
Corvette seats are delicate.
Sliding hard across the bolster can break it, causing it to flap side-to-side.
The leather is cheap, and there's little protection for it. It will wear out and form cracks, which is normal…for cheap leather.
The wire springs in the seat bottom, and the bars in the bolsters can also wear thru the foam and leather, but that can be fixed by placing layer of burlap between the springs and the foam.
Check the black plastic surround on the bottom of the seat to make sure it fits snugly against the leather, and isn't cracked. Older style plastic surrounds had a tendency to separate from the seat, but could be pushed back in. The newer style plastic surrounds can be used as a direct replacement, but one of the plastic studs may need to be ground off, or a hole will need to get punched into the leather.
The seats tend to rock back and forth by about a 1/4" during acceleration and braking. It can be fixed, but GM will not fix it. Some lucky owners can get the dealer to replace the frame under warranty. The seat backs swinging forward under braking is normal, and not considered a problem.
Here are a couple fixes:
Corvettemechanic.com --- must be a member
Rocking Seat Fix
Seat choice
Get the sport seats. The sport seats have a hole under the headrest. Some people put racing harness belts thru those loops. The seat frames and foam in both seats are interchangeable. Harness belt holes can be installed using Ford harness cutouts. Ask the dealership for them, they should know what it is without a part #. The foam in a standard seat will need to be cut, and sewing will have to be done, but it's an easy job.
Headlight bezel plugs
There are 1-1/2" plugs that are located on the headlight bezels that would fall off on the older Vette's. The new style plugs, have a twist-lock to prevent them from falling out, but also requires new bezels. Only the new bezels & plugs are available now, and they are compatible with older C5's.
Headlight gears
The gears in the headlight motor are plastic, and wear out over time. Ice, heavy Euro or projector headlights and twilight sentinal will cause the gears to wear out quickly. Fortunately a few years ago, Rodney started selling replacement brass gears, check out his website. Corvette America and probably a few other vendors now sell their own copy of his brass gears. Here's a thread that shows how to replace the gears.
Roof noises
If you buy a coupe with a removable roof, you can expect wind noise and some creaking. The wind noise will never totally go away, but if there's creaking, you can eliminate that by thinly applying dielectric silicone grease to the weather-stripping. It also prevents cracking, so do this to all weather-stripping, on any car.
Hood rattles
During cold weather the rubber hood stops can also rub and rattle against the hood. Adjust and lubricate the rubber stops so when you pull the corner of the hood up, it doesn't pull up, but the hood still closes.
Drivetrain rattling
The valvetrain makes a significant amount of noise at idle. It may sound like sewing machine. Converting the valve rockers to true shaft-mounted adjustable roller rockers with may help eliminate the valvetrain noise if adjusted properly. Installing a big cam and stiffer valve springs will make the noise louder.
On manual transmission cars (M6 or M12), the transmission sounds like it is rattling when leaving the line. It is normal. It is the clutch throwout bearing rattling around. Sometimes you'll hear a horrible rattle if you shut off the engine. If you press the clutch pedal in while shutting off the car, you won't hear it.
I verified this by lightly grinding my rotors with steel wool. Garnet paper is recommended, but I haven't tried it.
If you insist the problem is warping, don't turn the rotors since thinner rotors warp more easily. Resurfacing the rotors is only a temporary fix, one that is less effective each time your resurface the rotors due to the reduced thermal capacity of the rotors. Rotors are available for $25 at Napa and RockAuto.
Scraped front ends and rocker panels
Checking for scrapes is an easy way to tell if the car was treated well. It's almost impossible not to scrape the front end, but there are two metal crash bar loops that should prevent the bumper from scraping. The bumper itself should not have scrape marks on it. Check the underside of the tip of the bumper, and the bottom corners of the bumper. If the crash bar gets scraped enough, eventually it will wear down to the point where it needs to get replaced. It costs about $220 for the crash bar, nut-serts, bolts and insulators, and can be replaced in a couple of hours, just be sure to hook the hoses and electric connector back to the A.I.R. pump.
Here's a list of ALL the parts you'll need to replace the impact bar and the side air deflectors:
Part #------Qty---Description
10188023---001---Insulator (goes to bottom of radiator)
10278679---001---Insulator (goes to bottom of radiator)
10278679---005---Nut
10400765---001---Plate (the actual impact bar, unpainted)
10419312---001---Panel (air deflector)
10419313---001---Panel (air deflector)
11515638---010---Nut-speci
11515757---010---Bolt-Metr
10281487---010---Nut
Not all of these parts need to get replaced, and there will be a few leftovers, but it will get the job done.
The rocker panels tend to get scraped on lifts and big speed bumps.
A & A Corvettes invented two products to prevent damage from both kinds of scraping. They have wheels that attach to the crash bar, allowing the car to roll on driveways instead of wearing down the crash bar. It will still scrape the spoiler, but the spoiler is a cheap wear item that takes only 2 minutes to replace without a lift or jack. They also make two aluminum strips that attached the frame next to the rocker panels, and they take the scrapes themselves instead of the rockers panels. Neither of the devices are visible unless looking under the car, and they are discreet enough to possibly be missed anyway. If you see these devices installed, you can be pretty sure the owner took good care of the car. Without this extra protection, you can expect to replace the crash bar and repair the rockers several times over the life of the car. WARNING: It won't stop all scraping damage, just reduce the possibility of it happening, and reduce the damage when it does happen. Low hanging headers will probably still scrape.
Hood seal weather-strip
The sides and back of the hood compartment have weather-strip installed from the factory. The front is left open. Many owners install weather-strip along this front edge. You may not even notice it since it looks identical to rest of the weather-stripping. This extra weather-strip helps keep the engine compartment clean, and may also help the air intake system work better. This is another sign that the owner took good care of the car. The engine compartment stays pretty clean, but this the "extra step".
A/C System
There are two kinds of climate controls. One is manual with knobs, and the other is a dual-zone electronic system. The dual-zone system did cost more, but is not as reliable as the manual system. A leaking battery can affect both systems. A strong system is when the vents cannot be switched.
Over time, and especially in humid climates, the system can cause condensation to leak onto the passenger side carpet. There are three udders under the driver's side cowl. There are slits on the bottom, much like real udders. Vigorously squeeze and massage the udders until the debris has fallen out. Stop laughing!
If the vent settings cannot be changed, the vacuum line is probably loose, clogged or broken. Read more!
Squeaky steering wheel
When you turn the steering wheel, you may hear a squeak. It's just the plastic surfaces rubbing against each other. A shot of lubricant fixes this.
Squeaky/chirping/grinding wheel bearings
Drive slowly, better yet, coast along at low speeds with the windows open in a quiet location. Listen for a squeak from the wheels. Try turning in different directions. If you hear the rear wheels squeaking, you may have a worn wheel bearing. A replacement bearing costs $600 list, but you can usually find it for $400-450. I've heard that AutoZone has a better replacement for $126 by a company named Timken. The part is easy to replace if you can separate the ball joints. I had to buy a special Kent-Moore tool to do mine. This problem may persist safely for a few months, but eventually will become annoying. It seems to be a common problem, and more so for the rear wheel bearing. I've never heard of it happening twice to the same car, so if you fix it once, you're probably good for life. Several racers replace their wheel bearing every year.
A broken emergency drum clip may cause a false diagnosis. Be careful when removing & replacing the rear rotors.
Oil woes
Many late 2000 thru 2001 Vette's burn a lot of oil when the engine is kept constantly over 4,000 rpm's. This is caused by ring flutter, which allows extra oil to seep past the oil control rings, but doesn't seem to cause any extra wear to the engine. Chevrolet has rebuilt and replaced engines for owners that complained about excessive oil consumption. Their policy is that while the engine isn't normally operated like that outside of racing, it is the owner's prerogative to drive around in second gear all the time if they want to. It is covered under the warranty.
The PCV system also has a tendency to suck oil back into the intake at high rpm's. It doesn't seem to cause any problems, other than a slight mess inside the intake manifold. The newer style PCV system can be installed, but this requires removing all the components in the top of the engine valley. Usually only racer's bother with the hassle. Several generations of PCV systems have had the problem, and at this time, December 2004, the PCV system still sucks oil into the intake.
The oil-sucking problem will cause carbon buildup in the cylinders. The dealership sells GM Top End Cleaner, and Napa sells SeaFoam. The Top End Cleaner is not available in some smog states like California. Run a tube from the bottle into the hole for the PCV system behind the throttle body on the passenger side. Start the car, then start slowly sucking the solution into the engine. Don't go too fast or the engine could lockup. As soon as the solution is gone, stop the motor for >4 hours, but preferably 12 hours. Be aware that when the engine is restarted, there will be a LOT of smoke!
The oil-sucking can be prevented by installing a catch can. AMW and Greddy make catch cans, but a homebuilt catch can may be built using a Campbell-Hausfield air tool oil separator from most tool stores, including AutoZone. The AMW and Greddy cans are ~$100, but look great. The CH can is $15-25 for all the parts, and you can see how much oil is in it.
Overheating & burning smells
Even though the engine can heat up to 220, even 240 degrees Fahrenheit, this is normal. The radiator will keep the engine cool enough unless the radiator is blocked. Reprogramming the PCM can allow the fans to turn on earlier. If the fans also cool an aftermarket oil cooler, make sure the oil occasionally gets to 220 degrees to allow condensation and fuel to evaporate away. Fan settings and oil thermostats are two different ways to do this.
It's not uncommon for plastic bags to get sucked up under the front bumper, and cover the radiator, thus causing the car to truly overheat. If this happens, take a quick peek under the bumper, and remove anything under there. Sometimes bags get stuck to the exhaust pipes too, causing quite a stench as they burn away.
Locked steering column
All C5's, particularly manual transmission C5's, and early C6 steering columns have a tendency to lock and stay locked. Usually it can be unlocked once, but just once. Some owners claim that vigorously shaking the steering wheel can unlock the steering wheel. Dealer's are able to disable the locking mechanism with a modified locking plate. Currently this is the only real method to disable the locking mechanism. Basically the wheel will still try to lock, but there will be nothing for it to lock to. It's like a door dead bolt with a slot cut into the door jamb. There is a $100 kit that disables the steering column lock, and can be installed easily, but enough car vibrations can cause the lock to fall into the locking plate, even while driving!
GM has a part (#88952428 or 88952428) that has a harness wiring jumper and different lock plate. Not sure what the difference in the kits are.
After reading a few posts, manual transmission C5's & C6's are still in danger, even if the lock is disabled. The lock can vibrate out over time and get trapped in the locking plate. Auto transmission cars that have undergone the recall and new auto's will not have the locking plate at all, so they are safe. More information about COMPLETELY disabling the steering column lock will be forthcoming from other's on the forum, and by my own personal project. Until then, here are a few links about the topic:
Corvette Forum - Column Lock Harness K Installation
Corvettemechanic - A4 non locking column plate --- must be a member
Corvette Forum - Column-lock again even with CLB!
Corvette Forum - Has anyone ELSE beat column lock?
Faulty gas gauge
If you have bad gas (phew!), the fuel sender can be affected by the high sulfur content in the fuel, and cause the gauge to read empty. They car will still operate normally, and the gas gauge will work again if you use better gas, and will usually start again when you restart the car. It's just better to use good gas. Some people have had luck with running fuel filter cleaners thru the gas tank. New fuel senders sometimes fixes this problem. This thread has a LOT of ideas about what could be causing the problems, how to avoid problems, and how to fix it. It also points out how the late C5 fuel tanks and crossover tube is different.
Noisy fuel pump
There are two fuel tanks, and two fuel pumps. One fuel pump continually pumps gas from the passenger side tank into the driver side tank, and is quiet. The main fuel pump is directly behind the drivers seat, and can be annoying loud, especially on early C5's. It's normal, and not a sign of a failing fuel pump. Chevrolet does have a bulletin out instructing how to better insulate against the sound of the fuel pump. This is merely an annoyance. A newer, quieter pump can also be installed.
Extremely high oil pressure reading
The oil pressure sensor can fail, but it is still okay to drive. Turn the car off, but with the key in the "on" position and check the oil pressure gauge. It should read "0". If the oil pressure sensor is bad, it will show a positive reading. The oil pressure sender is located behind the intake manifold, and will require moving the intake manifold. The sender costs about $40 and part # 12573107 or 12562230.
How-to
Suspension squeaking
In cold weather you may hear the suspension creak when you go over speed bumps. To fix this, clean (optional) and lubricate the sway bar bushings. The adjustable metal sway bar end links on Hotchkis and T1 bars can also create loud clicking sounds. Most adjustable end links are quiet initially, but wear out and get noisy over time. Greasing and protecting the end links from dirt may prevent wear.
Tough shifting
The shifter in manually shifted Corvette's takes a strong arm to get it into gear. You really have to make sure that the shifter is fully in 1st and Reverse, or it will pop out of gear when you let the clutch out. This is not the fault of the car, but rather the fault of the driver.
Manual transmissions -- Replacing the transmission fluid often helps shifting. Early transmissions have paper blocker ring that require Dexron III compatible (usually organic) fluid because some synthetics will destroy the paper blocker rings and subsequently the transmission. Later transmissions, and all rebuilt transmissions, have Kevlar/carbon fiber parts that allow the use of synthetic fluids. I believe the 98-00 transmissions have the paper blocker rings. The safe transmission fluids seem to be: GM Synchromesh PN #12345349, Honda ATF-Z1, Royal Purple Synchromax, Amsoil ATF, O'Reilly Dexron III ATF. The following transmission fluids may be unsafe for early transmissions: Redline D4 ATF, Mobil 1 ATF, Royal Purple Max ATF.
Related threads:
LS1.com - Ending the speculation: Blocker rings, who's had them fail?
LS1Tech.com - Ending the speculation: Blocker rings, who's had them fail?
Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF for a M6?
If it is especially tough to shift into 2nd or 4th gear, it's possible that the synchro's are worn out or the forks are bent. Do NOT force it into gear. Abuse creates and aggravates this problem. You can still drive, even quite well, without synchro's....or a clutch for that matter if you know how to rev match.
Some aftermarket shifters make it easier to make sure you're fully in gear, and prevent gear grinding, but they also vibrate, and require more effort to shift. The stock shifter has a tuned weight damper that changes the vibrations to a non-audible frequency. The shaking doesn't annoy some people, and there are some fixes.
Leaky butt
The differential can leak from the side covers. The problem has to do with the design. The lip on the casing is not wide enough to create a proper seal with the cover. Resealing the covers can be successful, but many dealers do not use the correct sealant.
Inside/outside tire spinning
If one tire spins while turning, adjust the friction modifier ratio. Aftermarket gear fluid from Royal Purple, Amsoil and Redline do not require additional friction modifier. GM's friction modifier is PN #12377916. Too much friction modifier and the inside tire will spin/skip/hop. Too little friction modifier and the outside tire will spin/skip/hop. -- Thanks Russ!
Tire hop
Tire hop during hard acceleration in cold weather is common, even if the same tires don't hop in warmer weather. Tire rubber when viewed thru a microscope looks like a web. Normally parts of this web grabs onto objects on the ground and stretch until either the car moves forward, or the web breaks, resulting in tire spin. I believe in cold weather, the web is too stiff for either of these events to occur, so the tires hop. To find out more, read Racing & High Performance Tire: Using Tires to Tune for Grip and Balance. I haven't read it, but if you do, please let me know if my guess is correct. I found a couple stories on Google about people curing wheel hop with stiffer bushings and/or (jounce) shocks.
Interior rattles
The visors may rattle when they are put up, but if you flip them down, the rattle goes away. Squeezing the mirror lid down seems to take care of it. Try glueing a piece of felt or velcro between the mirror and lid to see if that fixes it. Caravaggio also makes replacement leather visors, but they go for $400.
The stereo is Bose, and to go along with the historically crappy build quality of Bose products, Bose has graced the Corvette with Bose emblems on the door speaker covers that rattle when you play music with bass. A Bose system doesn't exist that puts out good bass, but the system still manages to rattle the emblems when playing Country, Hip Hop, or Techno at moderate volumes. Check this problem by having a passenger and yourself putting a finger on the emblems with music playing. Glue the emblems down to fix it.
If the roof isn't tightened down enough, it will rattle. There are some adjustment screws in the roof to make this adjustment.
Belt Chirping
During cold weather, the belt can chirp. Goodyear Gatorback belts from AutoZone don't chirp.
Sticky Hatch
During cold weather, the hatch may pop up slowly, or not at all. Spray the latches with silicone grease until they come up properly. If the struts do not hold up the hatch, try lubing the strut bars.
1997: Service Bulletin: Hatch Will Not Pop Up When Activated in Cold Weather
Rocker failure
The needle bearings in the OEM rockers have been known to fail. Usually the problem is noticed with extra valvetrain noise and needle bearings stuck to a magnetic oil plug. Nasty Performance will rebuild OEM rockers with Harland Sharp bearings. This seems to be one of the better solutions since the stock rocker is very good at high rpms. Most aftermarket rockers are nose heavy and require grinding the heads and valve covers to fit. Currently Harland Sharp rockers are having problems with c-clip retainers falling off and causing problems on the way. I'll be following this issue since I have a set of HS rockers on my shelf waiting for this issue to be resolved. Here are some links:
LS1Tech - EMERGENCY!! ROCKERS! Help ASAP!
LS1Tech - Harland Sharp Rocker Failure
LS1Tech - Install or not install HS rockers?
Other Information
Active Stability Control
This allows you to keep some control of the car even when you do really stupid stunts. It doesn't bend the laws of physics, but will keep the car pointed where you are steering; you may still slide off the road, but at least the car will be pointed in the direction you were steering! One of the sensors is located around the passenger seat, and needs to be considered when installing a racing bucket. If you move that sensor, Active Stability will not know how to balance the car, and can be very dangerous. Active Stability came out around '99.
Jacking
The C5 was the first car to use hydroformed frame rails. Hydroformed rails are quickly becoming a common platform for new cars, but not many shops are prepared to lift these vehicles. The C5 requires an adapter for regular jacks and lifts to fit the jacking points. Make your own adapters with a hockey puck (or two) with a 1 1/2" eye bolt screwed thru the center. Stick the eye bolt thru the slit in the jacking point, turn 90 degrees, place jack under adapter and jack away....if you can get the jack under the car. You may have to use ramps. The C5 is so low that most people make their own wooden ramps....rhino ramps are too steep.
Key Fobs
There are basically two different kinds of key fobs, and they are not compatible with each other.
97-00, but 00 does not have the Passive Lock feature
01-04
Spark plugs
The OEM platinum plugs, along with other plugs have had problems with the pucks falling off. I have a picture of missing pucks in this thread. This thread outlines some of the problems with using platinum, and a recommendation for using silver tipped plugs. Basically, of all spark plug tips, platinum is the worst conductor, copper is good, iridium is even better and silver is the best. Don't take my word for it, do a little research, starting with this review. As for longevity, platinum, iridium and silver do have an advantage over copper, but plugs foul up after ~10K negating any difference corrosion would cause, and no plug will run well after 100K miles.
To make the spark plugs easier to change, get the Snap-On double-swivel sparkplug tool and remove the coil packs. Here's all you need to know about sparkplug changes: Go!
PFADT Racing Corvette Competition Sway Bars
I have always heard about different suspension upgrades for Sports cars and Corvettes, but always figured that they were more aimed at folks who want to take their car to the track. They are usually pretty expensive and I figured that the installation would be a pain in the neck. Given the price, the perceived difficulty with the installation, and my thoughts that I would only notice the differences on the track, I have have always shy'ed away from upgrades such as this. Whelp, all that has changed........
I recently sold my 2006 Corvette Z06 and purchased an 2009 Corvette Z06. I offer all of the Pfadt racing products on my Corvette Parts website and figured I really need to give some of their products a try. I have had customers tell me how much they love the PFADT Sway Bars and PFADT Coilovers but always assumed they were taking their cars to the track. I called Pfadt and asked them if I would notice a difference with handling on the street for a weekend driver like myself an also what would be the most "bang for my buck" upgrade. I was thinking the Pfadt Corvette coilovers, but surprisingly enough, Pfadt's recommendation was the Pfadt Competition Sway bars. In disbelief, I went ahead and had them send me a set for installation on my new Corvette. I truly did not believe that I was going to notice much of a difference from the stock setup to the Pfadt setup.
About a week later my front/rear Pfadt Corvette Z06 sway bar kit arrived. I was really not dying to start what I thought would be a complicated installation, so the kit sat in my office for close to two weeks before I decided to take the plunge. Prior to taking everything apart, I had to take the Z06 for a spirited drive with the stock sway's so that I had something fresh in my mind to compare too. I drove for 30 mins or so on a two lane secondary road that has nice tight turns and switchbacks.
Armed with a six pack and my hodge podge of tools I began the PFADT Sway Bar Installation (see link for details on the install). Removing the stock sway bars was pretty easy and took maybe 45 mins tops. I will say, comparing the stock sway bars to the PFADT bars, you see an immediate difference in quality between the two. The PFADT system absolutely makes the OEM sway's look cheap and inadequate. The entire installation took maybe 4 hours (max). I will say that the PFADT instructions do assume a certain level of technical knowledge and are probably written more with an installation shop in mind, but are still adequate for a "shade tree mechanic". I also did create my own PFADT Sway Bar Installation for Dummy's write-up just in case you need some extra pictures or explanation.
PFADT Corvette Z06 Sway Bar
Roughly 4 hours and a six pack later, my installation was done. Time for the first drive (of course, after all the beer was out of my system) with the new PFADT Competition Sway Bars. At first I was not expecting much difference, but after comparing the quality of the OEM components to the PFADT setup, I was starting to think maybe there will be a slight noticeable difference.
PFADT Competition Corvette Sway Bars
Startup, and the car rolled out of the driveway without any grinding noises or clunking (whew car still rolls, could not a screwed up the install that bad). Drove gently out of the neighborhood just to make sure everything was ok, and then accelerated onto a side street (45 mph) two lane, tight winding road. Ok, not is it is time to see if there is a difference.First turn, took it carefully and controlled...hmmmmm, felt good, my confidence was starting to build. Next turn, little more speed, everything still good. No noise...Now I really am feeling confident in my installation. Hit the next turn with a bit more "spirited driving". Oh my god!!!!! I could feel a HUGE difference! I immediately understood what "Body Roll" is. When I hit a corner, the my butt slide laterally in the seat, but the top of my torso felt very little lateral movement (nothing like with the stock setup). Hitting another turn, I accelerated into it (loving the new feeling), same thing, absolutely amazing. It is very hard to explain, but you do not really feel your head getting pulled into the turn, all the G's feel like they are pulling harder at the lower part of your body than the top. It was a clear case of you do not know what you are missing until you try it. I thought the Z06 handled good stock, and never had experienced what top notch sway bars feel like. I will never be able to go back to stock and this is one of those Corvette Modifications I would rank right up there with the Intake and Exhaust. It makes THAT big of a difference in your day to day driving experience and for the price, is worth EVERY penny!!!! Now I am really wondering what I have been missing with the PFADT Corvette Coilovers?
Let's just say that I am not a sticker man when it comes to my cars...But I loved the PFADT sway bars so much, that I just had to put their sticker in my back window 
Actually looks pretty good on a Cyber Grey car.
The C7 Is Being Produced to “target a very different sort of buyer”
The Corvette turned 60 this year and it seems that the majority of its target audience did exactly the same thing. The Corvette, long an American tradition and the true American sports car, has seen its audience grow older, and it seems that Chevrolet is beginning to get anxious about this. With this in mind, Chevrolet has decided to make direct and immediate steps with the next generation of their flagship vehicle to move it towards a new group of buyers. What is this group? Why, a younger one of course.
Based upon the popularity that the European sports car currently holds with the professional demographics in their 20's and 30's, it seems that Chevrolet will be making changes to move the Corvette in the direction of the Porsche, BMW, Ferrari, and Lamborghini. Finding and securing a younger fan-base is paramount to the long-term survival of the Corvette, whose style and badge alone have guaranteed it a place in the hearts of many customers already.
To attract this younger crowd, Chevrolet is moving in a few very specific directions. The first of these is getting away from the idea that larger displacement engines are always better. According to reports from high-ranking Chevrolet officials, the next generation of Corvette--it's 7th generation of vehicles in its long ling--will be outfitted with a small block, turbocharged V8. This small-black V8 will probably come in at around 3.0L in displacement, well below the current 6.3L V8 LS3 found in the current base Corvette. The drop in displacement will be offset by the inclusion of turbochargers however to ensure that the base Corvette still puts out impressive performance numbers--expect to see something in the 400HP range, or, 130HP/liter. These numbers will put right in line with the performance of such vehicles as the 911 Turbo and Lamborghini Gallardo, and will also help drastically lighten the curb-weight for the vehicle.
In addition to these changes, the next generation of Corvette engine will move to an overhead-cam configuration, instead of its current overhead-valve design. This configuration will utilize a dry-sump oil system that's incredibly effective in track-performance situations and allows for higher red-line RPM ranges, but will do so at an undeniable loss of straight-away speed. These moves, like the move to the smaller displacement engine, are certainly very European in design. Expect this turbocharged engine to redline at around 10,000 RPM, and have a wider performance curve with increased mid-range RPM acceleration--again, moves that are certain to improve, along with the decreased curb weight, the vehicle's track performance numbers.
All of this information, which has been leaked by various GM officials off the record "here and there", is right in line with one of the few official statements that has been given by the Corvette team: Mike Reuss' (president of GM's North American division) claim that the C7 Corvette will be “completely different” from its very American roots and that GM is looking to “target a very different sort of buyer for the next Corvette."
Of course, Chevrolet seems to still understand its roots, and it's very likely that the Corvette will be available with multiple different drivetrain options, including a larger, higher displacement, more-American V8--something in line with the current LS-series of engines. Couple that with the very classic Corvette design cues that are being promised--like the return of the split-window in the rear, taken from the collectible '63 Corvette--and it's obvious that the Corvette will still be, very much, a Corvette. The potential here then, for the C7 Corvette to be a melding of modern-European performance and classic American styling makes for a very promising next generation vehicle, and the sort of thing that could really bring a lot of excitement back in to a fading market.
Another area of the Corvette that is certain to get a large overhaul is the vehicle's interior, and this is long overdue. Ed Welburn, GM's Global Design Chief, has publicly called the current Corvette interior a "disappointment", and has stated that he will personally be overseeing the design and production of the C7 interior, and has promised that the new interior will be "world class". This change alone, if the promise is delivered upon, is enough to generate more buzz in the vehicle, as one of the major knocks on the current Corvette within media outlets has been the interior.
All of this speculation (because, let's face it, until we get this information straight from the horse's mouth is little more than that) is at least backed up, in some ways, by the public knowledge that GM has just made a $131million investment in their Bowling Green, Kentucky plant--the longtime home of the Corvette--in preparation for the C7's production. That sort of money, and GM's history of using their flagship sports car for the application of innovative new technologies, definitely provides a lot of promise for the vehicle. No matter what Chevrolet ends up doing, they've got one thing on their side: they're making a Corvette, and when it comes to the respect and excitement a vehicle name and badge can generate, the Corvette is unparalleled.
Tweel
To reinvent the wheel is something most of us can't fathom doing. Brian Russell of Colorado (and founder of the company Britek), and one of the biggest names in the tire world—Michelin—seem to be in a competition to see who can come out with the best reinvention… first. Imagine a world where tires couldn't go flat- a world where you could run over a patch of nails and not bat an eye. What if this same tire could give you better gas mileage, better handling, and last five times as long as a traditional tire. Now imagine military vehicles that had wheels and tires that were almost impervious to explosions from land mines and IED's, while simultaneously directing blasts outward instead of upward into the cabin. The world is in a new and exciting time right now for the automotive industry and the innovations that are coming out of it. Just like when Clark Foam closed its doors and shocked the surfing world—the world's supply of oil is dwindling—and the days of innovation are upon us. Change is never easy, and usually happens with much groaning and a fair amount of trial and error. But through the tempering furnaces of innovation come such unique inventions as quad fin parabolic balsa stringers, carbon fiber double concave swallow tails and big gun FRP glassed-ins with 50/50 rails on quad channel boards. The aforementioned mumbo jumbo are each things that no one tried before Clark Foam closed its doors, and with the pressure of the looming end of dinosaur blood, companies like Chevy, Toyota, and Honda (as well as a hundred smaller independent companies) are dumping millions of dollars into alternative fuel designs and new technology that would have otherwise never been funded. The catch is there are almost 208,000,000 cars on the road in just the United States alone. That leaves a lot of people who aren't going to trade in their perfectly normally working cars for a brand new car payment. So, this existing market leaves an area that desperately needs attention and fuel saving/ increased efficiency measures taken and introduced.
Enter the Tweel by Michelin and the Energy Return Wheel (or ERW) by Britek.
What these companies have done is create a platform that applies to every car. An airless tire that not only does all of the above mentioned ideas, but then some. A large part of Britek's goal by developing this new technology is to reduce our dependency on foreign oil. By making a wheel more efficient, the platform it utilizes becomes more efficient. This means that the modern cars that aren't equipped with the newest technology, or the latest biodiesel conversion, or even the most efficient fuel injected system around. Just think about how many cars from the 80's and 90's are still on the road. Now think about how far technology has come since then. Now imagine all of those cars getting somewhere between 20% and 37% better gas mileage. That means a 20%- 37% drop in oil consumption—not exactly a small chunk.
To put that into numbers, the current cost of WTI Crude Oil as of today is $99.34 a barrel, and Brent Crude Oil is $113.76 a barrel. The US consumes somewhere in the neighborhood of 7 billion barrels of crude oil per year (based on 6.9B barrels in 2009, and 6.85B barrels in 2008, source: U.S. Energy Information Administration). This means that $695,380,000,000. That's a hefty chunk of change, and one hell of an expensive habit we have. Out of those 7 billion barrels, roughly 53% (source) or $368,551,400,000, were from foreign sources. If we could reduce our consumption by even 15% with better fuel economy we could reduce our foreign dependency by almost $55,282,710,000. That's a big difference, and a huge amount of money. Now, these are just estimates, but if every car in America was equipped with tires that gave them 20% (or more) better fuel economy—that would be an enormous impact on our crude oil consumption. This is the driving force behind the ERW from Britek. Their goal of reducing our dependency on foreign oil, while improving gas mileage for the consumer, and simultaneously transforming tires into safer, better handling properties of our cars seems like an enormous step forward.
Michelin is the next biggest contender for the airless tire; their innovative approach is called the Tweel, a combination of the words tire and wheel. This creative design uses polyurethane inner spokes to support a tire on the outside using the spokes to flex to mimic the properties of a pneumatic tire. The Tweel is already in use in smaller skid-steer applications and has proven to be extremely durable and is currently in testing for the military and other high stress vehicle applications. The upside of the airless tire from both manufacturers is the obvious elimination of flat tires, however—in certain scenarios, this might be an issue- such as police and military checkpoints in which spike strips are utilized. The design of both of these tires renders them impervious to puncture- even from such forces as 250 grams of TNT. The only issue that Michelin seems to be encountering, that the Britek wheel/tire has solved is vibration at high speeds. Both designs are simply engineered, yet complex in their ability to function. Right now, the ERW has patents in the US, Japan and China; and Michelin has already begun to implement their technology small scale for testing, but no word on full-scale production can be found.
The surprising fact about all of this is both of these technologies have been out for well over five years now, and we have yet to see the actual implementation of these on the road. So now, after building you up with so much enthusiasm, I have to admit, that I'm skeptical that either of these companies will succeed in their quests for a mass produced airless tire. The Britek website seems to have been all but forgotten. The last update for their forums by an administrator was over two and a half years ago and they don't seem to exist anywhere else on the internet. The company seems to have fallen off the face of the planet and so does interest in their product. This, at a time when the U.S. is so seriously in need of a new technology for our extreme oil addiction, seems to have been lost. Perhaps the recession hit the company hard? Or perhaps the larger tire manufacturers bought out the technology? Maybe it was a combination of lack of interest and a hard pressed market that drove them underground, but whatever the reason, neither manufacturer seems to have been particularly focused on bringing this technology back to the front of the line.
Another interesting conundrum could be the simple issue of trying to sell technology like this to potential investors. The market has been established with the use of conventional pneumatic tires for almost a century now, and the altering of thinking is always hard to do. The wheels of change move very slowly, (no pun intended) and getting the enormous automobile market- an industry that pulls over $4 billion a year according to SEMA, is surely no easy feat.
Videos on both:
Big Brakes, High Performance Pads and Rotors, and the Corvette
Wilwood, Brembo, SSBC, StopTECH, and AP Racing are a few of the big names that immediately come to mind when the phrase "Big Brakes" gets thrown around. What's lesser known is that a large number of people misinterpret information like rotor size, drill patterns, pad material, and the number of pistons in a caliper. I'm writing this article to try and put a cap on some, if not all of these issues for the reader out in the world wide web of information. The goal is to try and explain some of these terms and concepts and their meanings to the best of my abilities, and narrow a couple of brands (maybe even one) down that seem to stand above the rest, in terms of fitting the needs of the new Corvette. But in order to do that, we must first understand the basics of braking, and how it is best achieved. Believe it or not, it doesn't start with how big your brakes are…
It starts where the rubber meets the road. Literally- your brakes don't stop your car, your tires do. Your tires are your first point of contact in the war against momentum. Think about it this way- if you can lock up your stock brakes, then you don't need bigger brakes, you need stickier tires. This is the point of contact on the road for everything- turning, acceleration, and braking. But before you go out and purchase a brand new set of Mickey Thompson drag radials to run on the street, let's briefly discuss a few basics on the tires. I am not advocating one tire supplier over another in this article, but the Tire Rack articles I reference happen to be some of the best tech articles on the internet for informational purposes. I'm sure most of you are well aware that each tire has a size to it. But, for those of you that don't 
here's a basic rundown of things to look for when choosing a set of tires. Size is obviously most important and is measured by width, aspect ratio, and rim size. This is stamped on the side of each tire in the width/aspect ratio/speed rating and rim size format. So a tire that is 225/50/R16 (like the one shown in the diagram from Tire Rack) is 225mm wide, has a 50mm aspect ratio to the wheel, is a radial tire and fits a rim size of 16 inches (tire size article here). The next most important piece of information for our purposes will be focusing on tread wear rating. Basically, in short the tread wear rating achieved on a tire is a good indication of how sticky a tire is. Plainly speaking, the stickier the compound the better the tire grips the road but the faster it wears out. This translates to having to replace tires more often, and wet weather driving should be approached with extra caution. So without writing a full tech article on how to determine all of these factors, I have provided another link to Tire Rack's tech articles outlining each of these points (tread wear/ UTQG test standards here). So, now that you've gone out and bought the stickiest tire you could legally run on the street, (***It bears repeating once again that when purchasing tires, a general rule of thumb is: the stickier the tire, the lesser the tread life, and generally speaking the worse the wet weather traction is going to be. ***) you want your braking to be improved further. Understandable.
Press on eager eyes, press on.
Suspension is the next area I want to touch on briefly as well. I'm not writing a tech article on how to modify your suspension today, but think of it this way: your tires are only able to remain connected to the road as much as your suspension keeps them planted on the road. In short, your contact patch (the area that your tires are actually touching the road-generally less than one square foot); can only be efficiently used if it is firmly planted on the road. So, on the new Chevy Corvette (or any new car for that matter) this shouldn't be an issue initially, but aftermarket springs and shocks go a long way in terms of keeping your car planted to the road firmly and more effectively. Factory suspension is designed to be comfortable and usually not maximized for the track. So, if your plans are to track the car, I strongly encourage upgrading the suspension for better handling and traction. The more effectively your car is connected to the road, the more the contact patch is efficiently used. The more your contact patch is efficiently used, the better the traction. The better traction is maintained, the better the braking. See? Great braking starts with great tires and great suspension.
Rotors: Cross-drilled vs. Slotted vs. Blank
Now I'll move on to perhaps the biggest debate in aftermarket braking: rotors. I repeatedly hear people debating whether or not cross drilled is better than slotted rotors, or whether slotted rotors are better than blank face rotors and vice versa for each of those, or a combination of the two. This is not an easy debate to settle, but before I anger the World Wide Web, we should examine the strengths and weaknesses of each. Cross drilled, although they may be the cooler looking of the bunch, are susceptible to cracking under heavy use (such as track time). By drilling holes in something (this may be obvious…) the structural rigidity of said object is reduced (it should also be noted that it substantially reduces un-sprung rotating mass, but this is negligible compared to the downfalls stated later). Brakes work on the principle of friction, and when friction happens- the byproduct is heat. Rotor temperatures can reach upwards of 900 degrees Fahrenheit when used heavily on the street and occasional track days, temperatures on the track have been recorded for an F1 brake rotor generating heat in excess of double that at 1800 degrees Fahrenheit. So as these components heat up, they also cool down, expanding and contracting putting these stresses on normal metal or alloy components is harsh enough; let alone drilling them full of holes. So, after repeated use in these conditions, the weakest area of the rotor tends to give way to the stress. This is evident in the manifestation of cracking around the weakest area of the rotor: the holes. A prime example can be seen in the picture below. This can result in catastrophic brake failure, which not only can be dangerous to you and others, but be extremely costly to repair. When the big names in racing technology like Brembo, Wilwood, etc. recommend against using cross drilled rotors on the track, their advice should be heeded. The only exception to this rule I can see is when the manufacturer uses ceramic or carbon/ceramic brakes, a markedly more expensive option seen on the feet of Ferrari, Porsche GT series cars, and other high end supercars.
After ruling out cross drilled rotors as a serious track or heavy use option (in my honest opinion, I question why they are even still made as an aftermarket option) the next rotor face design most heavily debated is slotted rotors. Slotted rotors serve multiple functions in their design: they help to expel hot gases as they are generated against the face of the rotor and the pad, while simultaneously sweeping the face of the pad free of dust, and any (in the uncanny event) debris that might have been sucked into the rotor/pad braking surface. Slotting rotors also helps the "bite" 
characteristic of the pad- much in the same way drilled rotors have the same effect. Slotted rotors have been around for quite some time now, and have proven themselves to be a viable option over blank faced rotors. However, the reasoning behind a slotted rotor is the same as a drilled rotor without the apparent disadvantages, and has proven so in various forms of racing.
The next option is a blank faced rotor; this is structurally the strongest of the three discussed options. But a blank face rotor lacks the advantage of slots to help expel heat and debris from the pad and rotor area, effectively running hotter than the slotted rotors. However, a vented, blank face rotor seems to be the rotor of choice for most race teams. By venting the rotor, with vanes inside the rotor itself, the air in the surrounding wheel and hub is effectively impelled through the surface of the rotor itself drastically dropping temperatures on the rotor face. Many manufacturers have developed an excellent system, as seen in the cut away picture from StopTECH-the impeller design pulls air through the surface of the already drilled rotor aiding in cooling. It is a fact that the heat generated by the braking process must be dissipated. The rotor (disc) handles roughly 80% of this job; therefore any advances in cooling this component are of great benefit. Vented rotors were initially introduced by Ford on the GT40 in 1966. With this we should also note that cooling is a large part of effective braking. Although not practical for most street cars, large ducts are often used in race car design to aid in cooling brakes; less heat means longer life, and less wear.
Pads
Brake pads are another serious point of contention for many enthusiasts and racers. The brake pad itself is a shaped conglomeration of friction material bound to a backing plate usually made of steel. Pad material can and has been made of various materials including asbestos (not commonly used anymore for obvious health reasons), ceramic, Kevlar, copper, aramid fibers, and other various organic and semi-metallic combinations. For the sake of argument I will not delve deeply into the "best" pad or pad materials, but there are a myriad of companies that produce brake pads, and each generally defines the differences between common light economy car use, and those designated for heavy truck, street performance or race only abuse. Some commonly noted companies include Hawk, EBC, Porterfield, Project Mu, Brembo, and so on. Different pads are geared towards different goals, some value less noise over less bite, others value less dust over less noise, and others still are designed for maximum performance regardless of noise or dust. The choice in pad is almost as unique as the driver, but more importantly the goals the driver has for the car and its performance and how the driver likes the brakes to perform at a certain point. Some racers prefer a harsh initial bite, making braking less initially modulated; while others prefer a moderate bite to help them gauge modulation in extreme braking situations. Again, pad choice is as unique as the car and varies uniquely from driver to driver,
Calipers
Ahh, those big shiny, colorful, name bearing beauties we all see behind the wheels of the cars on the greatest circuits in the world, clamping down on massive rotors slowing the car in impeccable fashion. These beauties are engineering feats in themselves, and are the final product of months of R&D, reshaping, resizing, structurally balancing, and finally matched to the car for perfect clamping force distribution. That being said let's delve into some of the different setups that calipers come varied in. There are many different configurations for a caliper that go into play in order for it to function at its maximum efficiency. Things like number of pistons in the caliper, caliper material, piston material, the brake fluid being used, the size of the piston(s), the weight of the vehicle, the intended use of the vehicle, etc. The list goes on for quite a while longer, but for our purposes I will explain very simply how the caliper functions. In a nutshell, the process goes as follows: your car has a brake fluid reservoir usually behind a brake booster/master cylinder. This master cylinder is connected to the pedal which pivots on an axis- acting as a lever. When you place your foot on the pedal and apply pressure, this lever (pedal) amplifies the force of your foot and forces fluid in the brake master cylinder and through the closed system traveling throughout the vehicle to each corner at the same time, expanding and driving the piston out of the cylinder in the caliper against the pad to clamp down on the rotor. A simple cutaway of a caliper is below courtesy of howstuffworks.com and for a further in-depth explanation of how disc brakes work, please click on the picture to link to the article.
Now that we know how a caliper works, let's examine how companies reach a conclusion on which size rotor, what size caliper, and what size piston within the caliper to use, and how many of them. This is an extremely complicated process that focuses on the corner weight of the vehicle, and starts and ends with the factory braking bias. The engineers of each braking system from the factory, for every car and manufacturer, had to put the system/car through an extremely stringent series of tests. In order for the car to pass, it had to be deemed road worthy after hundreds of hours of testing and reevaluating and ultimately the approval from the DOT and other governmentally mandated safety laws. In reference to braking bias, it is logically apparent that when you brake, weight shifts forward, and say you had just slapped some no name (or-as popular in the sport compact world, taking a higher performance model and installing its bigger brake setup on the base model car) bigger brakes, and would actually find that your stopping distances increased. What? Bigger brakes taking longer to stop the car? That's right; by upsetting the braking bias you upset exactly how much pressure the brakes apply to each corner. By installing a bigger rotor, with a bigger set of pistons, it might be setting the braking bias too far forward resulting in the undue amount of pressure being put up front with not enough bias in the rear consequentially creating longer braking distances.
Fluid and Lines
Fluid is an entirely big subject in itself, and for our purposes I will refrain from making extreme recommendations, but if I was to over broaden the subject and make a **GENERAL** recommendation, I would say that it would be safe to do three things regardless of brake set up. Initially, I would recommend first and foremost following the exact specifications of any brake kit manufacturer that you end up purchasing. The amount of time these companies have spent researching which fluid works best for their kits, and the components that they use in each kit (rubber seals, and different metal components of the system react differently with different chemical make-ups of different fluids). Secondly, for a performance application, avoid DOT 5 fluids as they are silicone based and more compressible over glycol-ether based DOT 3, 4, and 5.1 fluids. Thirdly, I would recommend bleeding your brakes 2-3 times a year, more if you drive hard or especially if you track the car, or live in a humid climate. But honestly, this is not an easily approachable subject for the amount of depth we're going into for this article. But on the subject of lines, I am a firm believer in stainless steel braided, Teflon coated lines. They do not expand in the same way that factory rubber lines do, creating a stronger pedal feel with better response. Dollar for dollar, it's probably the cheapest and most noticeable performance upgrade you'll spend on brakes.
Summary and Notes on Fitment
So, how do we determine which kit is better for our new Chevrolet Corvette? There are a few big name companies with great kits on the market, namely Wilwood, Brembo, and StopTECH. These are all big names and can offer incredible quality, and superb fitment. They each are 6-piston front/4-piston rear kits with the options of either slotted, or drilled and slotted rotors. As discussed earlier, slotted is the better option when choosing high performance rotors. Each kit comes with a set of stainless lines, and requires a minimum wheel size of 18 inches. It should be taken into consideration also when purchasing a kit of this magnitude that these will be larger than the factory brakes, and wheel fitment is crucial. The minimum clearance for each of these brake manufacturers is 2mm. This is easily accounted for when you follow the brake manufacturer's directions for test fitment. The manufacturer will provide a FREE template online to be printed out to scale and then applied to poster-board or cardboard and then cut out placing this inside the wheel and double checking measurements and fitment. Pretty straight forward and easy to do with the wheel obviously removed from the vehicle. I hope that this article has helped clear up some of the misconceptions on big brakes, and brakes in general.
Ceramic Coating VS Header Wrapping VS Naked Steel for Corvette Headers?
In the automotive industry, it's almost a lost cause attempting to come to a conclusion by searching on the internet for a definite answer on something as debatable as header wrap vs. ceramic coating vs. leaving the header naked as it was the day it left the factory.
I said almost a lost cause.
Today, what I'm going to examine are the differences between the options above, and speak to a couple of different reputable companies to get their take on which method(s) should or should not be implemented; and in the most unbiased manner possible, try to discern the best way to protect your investment while keeping it cool and making it the most efficient. The companies I have selected to talk to for this article are American Racing Headers, Jet Hot, and Kooks Headers. This way I can get a few different takes on the whole situation. American Racing Headers is a company based out of New York (most of you are probably familiar with) that specializes in crafting headers for American cars. Jet Hot, based in North 
Carolina, is a company that specializes in ceramic coatings for exhaust pieces for just about anything that has an engine. And last but certainly not least is Kooks Headers, also out of North Carolina, who specialize in custom exhaust pieces for domestics. These companies have one thing in common: exhaust is the driving force behind each of their businesses, as so they are commonly considered to be experts in the field. These companies have spent countless hours and lots of money researching and developing their products and services, so I figured- who better to ask?
The first of these companies I had an opportunity to interview with was American Racing Headers. I spoke with Anthony, who put me in touch with the owner of the company- Nick. These guys have been in the exhaust business for twenty some odd years but the company itself has only been around for the last five and a half. Talking with Nick, he informed me that all of their systems are made out of SS304 Stainless Steel, which is 200% better at retaining heat than mild steel. "The issue with wrapping a header is that by wrapping something around it, it insulates it [the header] but retains moisture and dirt against the steel itself. This leads to rust and cracking prematurely and also prevents the naked eye from seeing any damage caused until it's too late. By wrapping the system," he explained, "it's almost a guaranteed early death to the component." We went on to talk about ceramic coatings on a header. "We don't recommend coating our headers unless it's for an extremely high horsepower application, there's just really no need. As far as coating a header, unless you intend to use the car for a lot of high abuse racing- like road racing, or have a forced induction system it's just overkill."
Bottom of the third: Coating: 0. Wrapping: 0. Naked: 1, according to American Racing Headers.
The next company that I was able to get a hold of was Kooks Custom Headers. These guys have been in the exhaust industry for 48 years, so needless to say they've been around the block a few times. I spoke with George R. there, and he was very to the point about wrapping headers: "It's a thing of the past. Originally it was used to retain heat in the primaries, but that's not necessary anymore." When I brought up the notion of ceramic coatings, he shot that down almost immediately as well, "There's no need, its overkill for anything but a racecar. You could do it for looks, but it's really kind of pointless." So, that's two in the books 
that have shot down the notion of coating or wrapping headers for anything but a fully fledged racecar. These also happen to be two of the most respected names in the business.
Top of the sixth: Coating: 0. Wrapping: 0. Naked: 2.
So far, the top two names in headers have said not to do anything to your headers unless you're running an absurd amount of power, forced induction of some sort, or unless your car is a true bred race car (and as much as I know we all hate to admit it, but unless you trailer your car to the track, it has at least a 6 point cage, 5 point harnesses, is not registered, and has no interior- it does not qualify as a race car). I know this goes against everything we've all read on the forums, and against what we've all been raised/taught through the years. I certainly used to think that ceramic coating headers and then heat wrapping them was the only way to go. Interestingly enough, however, when you break it down past it being an overkill move, the engineering behind both of the previous two notions is not without thought. The cooler an engine runs, generally the better, but when you start changing the way that exhaust is pulled out of the engine (scavenging), you start to change the way the engine behaves. It is possible to change the dynamics of the engine in such a way that you actually lose power. The concept of over-scavenging is what happens when an improperly tuned exhaust pulls too much air through the engine and you end up with a flat spot in the RPM range.
I know what you're thinking- "But wait! He hasn't said anything about Jet Hot yet!"
So, last but not least I got a call back from Jet Hot, and much to my surprise it was from David Burton, the head of engineering for Jet Hot. David was very patient with me and my lack of an engineering background, and broke it down very simply. In essence, when you coat something, you prevent corrosion. This is true with the Jet Hot coatings, but unlike header wrap their coatings provide a completely uniform dispersion of heat, and do not trap moisture, but prolong the corrosion resistance process. When asked about corrosion he said, "It really depends on the alloy and what kind of metal the headers are made of. Different metals will oxidize and rust at different rates. Mild steel is prone to rusting quickly, where as stainless steel is more corrosion resistant, even cast iron is prone to pitting- just at a much slower rate. Wraps and coating both improve the thermal qualities by acting as insulators, but wraps will burn and sometimes even etch themselves into the metal or alloy they cover as they heat and cool. They also trap dirt, debris, and water against the metals they are insulating. The thermal cycle burns the carbon out of steel as it goes from extremely hot, to cool, and then repeats. When this happens, the metal begins to rust under normal conditions. What the ceramic coating does is act as an insulator, and a corrosion inhibitor."
So, top of the ninth, Coating: 1. Wrapping: 0. Naked: 2.
Basically, what I can deduce from all of these interviews is that the first singular issue that should be addressed is that we should NOT be wrapping headers. It's a thing of the past, passed down from the generations before. Ceramic coating is a great tool in preventing corrosion, but not entirely necessary for an everyday driver. The bottom line is if you want to spend the extra money on corrosion resistance, and heat insulation, it's not a bad idea- but the headers will perform just as well without them. So, if you happen to be running a beast of a Corvette with a small mountain of power underneath the hood - either by way of forced induction, or just an astronomically built N/A set up - then it might be a good idea to get a ceramic coating on your headers. But, for the rest of us, while it does look nice, and provide an insulator to our headers, those beautifully crafted bends of steel sucking out the hot gases inside our motors, can be left just as naked as the day they were born.
Keep it under the limit,
-CN
Special thanks to Nick and Anthony at American Racing Headers, George R. at Kooks, and David Burton and Cheryl at Jet Hot for patiently taking time out of their busy day to put up with my poking and prodding and answering my questions.